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FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Any Diagrams for Gretsch Pro Jets? I'm installing an LR Baggs T-Bridge.

Next 20 Messages  
Stew
Contributing Member
**********

Riverside, CA

Surf's Up!
Apr 10th, 2012 09:09 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I'm planning on replacing the master volume replacing with the L.R. Baggs T-bridge piezo volume pot.

This will eliminate the master volume function yet still retain the separate neck and bridge volume controls. I don't see why I can't wire the magnetic pickups like a Les Paul with a master Tone control, right? Because the T-Bridge wire only go so far, I figure this makes sense to swap out the master volume for the piezo volume passive.

Anyone have any basic wiring diagrams of a Pro jet or duo jet? It has to have the 3 way toggle, Master Volume, Neck Volume, Bridge Volume, and Tone components.

Just looking for something, Seymour Duncan friendly looking diagrams.

(This message was last edited by Stew at 09:15 PM, Apr 10th, 2012)

wrnchbndr
Contributing Member
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New Jersey

The otters threw me out
Apr 11th, 2012 07:09 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Stew, are you going to use two output jacks or is there an intent to combine the piezo and magnetic signals?

Stew
Contributing Member
**********

Riverside, CA

Surf's Up!
Apr 11th, 2012 07:52 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Combine as a mono signal. It's a stereo jack and so I can run a Y-cable (supplied by LR. Baggs) to get both magnetic and piezo signals. All I have to do is just roll off the piezo volume instead of having to drill a mini toggle.

I've done this before using the X-bridge system for Strat. I'll have do drill a small 5/16" hole from underneath the "tune-o-matic" style bridge and into the pickup cavity to access the control cavity.

My customer has a pedal acoustic preamp pedal as well as an SWR California Blonde acoustic amp. So there's no need for an on-board active preamp.

Te 52

'52 Tele + Delirium

= Tellurium 52
Apr 11th, 2012 10:16 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

.

DuoJet schematic

Stew
Contributing Member
**********

Riverside, CA

Surf's Up!
Apr 11th, 2012 12:32 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I'm telling you Te 52, you always come through for me, hahaha.

So what can I do with the neck and bridge pickup volumes in relation to a master tone? Send from the master tone from middle pot lug to middle lugs of 3 way switch? Then send an output wire from the tone pot to which of the three lugs on the stereo output jack?

I'm a little confused as to what to do with the piezo master volume. I'm sure I can just bypass all magnetic signals completely and just have piezo lead wires hit the piezo pot, then from one of the piezo pot lugs send out to one of three lugs on the stereo jack. I have so many conflicting examples.

Below is LR Baggs installation page. I have to do a bunch of soldering wires to a circuit board and it looks like only one make it to the lug?

LR Baggs website diagrams.

Stew
Contributing Member
**********

Riverside, CA

Surf's Up!
Apr 11th, 2012 12:35 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

(This message was last edited by Stew at 02:28 PM, Apr 11th, 2012)

Stew
Contributing Member
**********

Riverside, CA

Surf's Up!
Apr 11th, 2012 02:37 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

It looks like the piezo output goes to the ring, and the tone goes to the tip. There is no attachment between the neck and bridge pots other than their connection at the 3 way switch. Am I right so far?

Also, should there just be one output wire coming off the master tone to the tip of the jack? Or should there be two shared wires coming off the middle tone lug: one heading for connection at the middle of the 3 way switch, and the other towards the tip of the output jack?

Here's what I'm imagining in my head.

Stew's interpretation (sorry, looks like a 5 year old made this)

(This message was last edited by Stew at 02:52 PM, Apr 11th, 2012)

wrnchbndr
Contributing Member
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New Jersey

The otters threw me out
Apr 12th, 2012 06:23 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

In your diagram I believe you failed to show the center conductor of the piezo going to the piezo volume pot lug on the right. The lug on the left should get soldered to the back of the pot. With this conguration, you will only get a piezo signal when using a stereo jack and it will simply be absent when using a mono jack. There will also be no tone control for the piezo. You also need to run a ground wire from the green wire to the back of the master tone. This circuit will function.



Stew
Contributing Member
**********

Riverside, CA

Surf's Up!
Apr 12th, 2012 11:33 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

wrnchbnder: you're right? If using just a standard mono cable, the piezo signal will not be present. It can only be used with a stereo Y cable to use both magnetic and piezo signals.

Piezo pot: left lug is grounded to the pot, middle lug is being sent to the ring on the stereo output jack, and the middle & right lug share a capacitor supplied by LR Baggs.

So that's cool to have a shared middle lug on the Master tone? One going to the middle switch, and the other going to the tip on the stereo output jack?

Tone is not an issue for the piezo signal since the tone will be controlled by either an LR Baggs Para DI/Preamp pedal or at the SWR California Blonde Acoustic amp.

I don't want to bastardize this Gretsch too much by adding another output jack alongside the magnetic output jack.

Ugly schematics, right wrnchbndr? haha.

Stew
Contributing Member
**********

Riverside, CA

Surf's Up!
Apr 12th, 2012 03:38 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

How's this wrnchbnder. Will this work?

Improved drawing skills diagram, hahaha!

Peegoo
Contributing Member
**********
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That chicken

is WRONG, baby.
Apr 12th, 2012 04:11 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

No need to run that long wire from the master tone pot to the switch. All you need is a connector from the jack's tip contact (via the master "hot" to the jack) to the pot, then through the tone cap to ground. It accomplishes the same thing, without all that extra wire that can pick up stray interference like an antenna.

Stew
Contributing Member
**********

Riverside, CA

Surf's Up!
Apr 12th, 2012 04:58 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

So you mean like a jumper from the middle tone pot lug or just attach to the pot casing then send a wire to the lug that's attaching the cap to the pot?

Sorry, should not be posting while having a few. I'll re-read this tomorrow, hehe.

Yes or no?

Peegoo
Contributing Member
**********
**********

That chicken

is WRONG, baby.
Apr 12th, 2012 05:54 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Exactly, doctor.

BUT! Remove the little jumper between tabs 1 and 2 like you have there in your

diagram.

wrnchbndr
Contributing Member
*******

New Jersey

The otters threw me out
Apr 12th, 2012 07:34 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

I still don't see you piezo signal wire properly attached to the lug that is shown on the right-hand side of your volume pot. The summed output of the piezo should be a shielded wire. The shield gets soldered to the back of the pot as you have shown but the center conductor of the summed output within the shield goes to the lug on the right-hand side. It is only that this wire is missing from your better artwork diagram.

Stew
Contributing Member
**********

Riverside, CA

Surf's Up!
Apr 13th, 2012 07:53 AM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

wrnchbnder, check out the LR Baggs diagram above. That's what I'm going against. The lead wire coming off of the summed piezo circuit board (which is also covered in a copper shielding, not shown on my diagram), is shown soldered to the piezo volume pot back, like a ground. It clearly shows the output wire coming off the center lug which is shared by a capacitor. The capacitor is connected between the middle and #3 lug.

The lead wire (and individual piezo saddle wires) all woven cloth (not metal like shielded wire) with a plastic sheath, all covering a core wire.

Peegoo. The reason I was mentioning the shared wires on the master tone (one to the switch and one going to the tip) was to mess with as little as possible.

I could have just left the switch as is, and just remove and reposition wires to support the new piezo pot. But if it's going to cause new noise, then I'll yank it....or at least unsolder it first.

BTW all, it turns out to be an Electromatic Gretsch. So the guts are filled with cheap dime sized mini pots. Ugh! TV Jones pickups though. :)

It's going to be a tight fit. Perhaps I could drop out the pots first for better access to pots rather than burn up adjacent wiring while I do this mod.

wrnchbnder, tell me what you think after viewing the LR Baggs diagram.

Stew
Contributing Member
**********

Riverside, CA

Surf's Up!
Apr 13th, 2012 12:02 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Okay, turns out I'm in for a lot of work. T-bridge will not fit post spacing for Korean Electromatic Gretsch spacine. OEM post is larger in diameter than post-grommet of LR Baggs T-Bridge (take notes class.)

So I'm going to grind down the original posts so that the T-bridge can fit the existing thumbscrews/post/grommet. I also found out that my lead wire from my piezo circuit board is long enough to reach the pot near the neck pickup. This means that I can keep my main magnetic controls down near the tone pot, and keep the piezo volume separate near the neck pickup.

I did notice on the TV Jones pickups, that there are two wires coming out (hot and ground.) Just seems like a lot of grounding going on on such super small mini pots. I'd like to color code the wires for better reference. It's a rats nest of wires.

So here's my last understanding of what's going to be wired up. Thanks for everyone's help. Let me know if I'm forgetting something. BTW, there is a ground wire coming off of the tone that is attached somewhere within the body. I forgot to included that on my diagram.

Back view of the most recent wiring idea.

wrnchbndr
Contributing Member
*******

New Jersey

The otters threw me out
Apr 13th, 2012 02:43 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

EEEK!

Her ya go

Stew
Contributing Member
**********

Riverside, CA

Surf's Up!
Apr 13th, 2012 03:07 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

Dude! You are dead right!!!!

I had to put my old man glasses on to notice. There is a very small nub of solder where the cloth weave ends. So the cloth solder attaches to the pot while the solid core wire attaches to the #3 (far right) lug that is sharing the cap between the #2 and #3 lugs. Got it.

Now I just have to go out and buy a long stem pot to replace the LR Baggs "pickguard height" stem CTS pot. Have any idea what pot value LR Baggs uses?

Need a long stem mini pot matching what ever the hell this is.

Stew
Contributing Member
**********

Riverside, CA

Surf's Up!
Apr 13th, 2012 03:33 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

5 meg. Now I just have to go out in this heavy rain and buy one.

wrnchbndr
Contributing Member
*******

New Jersey

The otters threw me out
Apr 14th, 2012 12:34 PM   Edit   Profile   Print Topic   Search Topic

YEAAAA!!!

-half credit toward another tee-shirt?

Stew, drop me an email and I'll shoot you back so way cool information.

Next 20 Messages  

FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Any Diagrams for Gretsch Pro Jets? I'm installing an LR Baggs T-Bridge.




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