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FDP Forum / The Lefty Forum / Questions about building a guitar

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LeftyMeister
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Buckeye Country, USA

Tone is in the lingers
Oct 9th, 2018 05:57 PM   Edit   Profile  

I'm close to selling my practice board and moving onto the next phase of my guitar. The closest I've come to building one in the past was my Carvin Bolt, and I basically just stained it and assembled the parts. So, I have some questions.

1. With a rosewood fretboard, should I treat it with poly or just oil it?

2. Should I varnish the back of the neck?

3. Should I treat the neck pocket or leave it as-is?

4. My pups will be tele bridge, strat middle, and P90 neck. Should the middle strat pup be RW for a quasi strat sound in bridge/middle?

5. The bridge tele and neck P90 will be a little overwound for a hotter tone. Should I get a standard middle strat or overwound also?

Leftee
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VA

Oct 9th, 2018 07:42 PM   Edit   Profile  

1. Just oil if dry. Nothing else. Lemon oil or your favorite fretboard oil.
2. You will need to seal the back of the neck with something. I like Tung Oil. Warmoth won’t honor warranty unless the neck is treated with something.
3. Leave the neck pocket bare.
4. Yes. That’s the short answer. You’ll also get noise canceling with a rwrp middle pickup. That is, given you know the winding and magnet orientation of the other two pickups.
5. You could go either way, really. But I have zero experience with that pickup combo.

(This message was last edited by Leftee at 09:44 PM, Oct 9th, 2018)

LeftyMeister
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Buckeye Country, USA

Tone is in the lingers
Oct 9th, 2018 08:03 PM   Edit   Profile  

Thanks! I used tung oil on my Carvin neck and then bee's wax to make my hand slide smoother. I like the feel.


Leftee
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VA

Oct 9th, 2018 08:05 PM   Edit   Profile  

My fave is Tung Oil. A couple coats and let it dry for a week or so. Then rub it down lightly with 0000 steel wool.

I like the bee’s wax idea!

(This message was last edited by Leftee at 10:08 PM, Oct 9th, 2018)

Mick Reid
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Oct 10th, 2018 12:17 AM   Edit   Profile  

Leftee's got it.

I will add that I prefer Birchwood Casey Tru Oil instead of tung oil.

They can be similar (different tung oils are different - that's a whole separate thread) but Tru Oil dries much quicker and I can get 3-4 coats per day. I like a minimum of 12 coats, but that's me.

(This message was last edited by Mick Reid at 04:50 AM, Oct 10th, 2018)

Peegoo
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Stinks like hell

and the neighbors complain
Oct 10th, 2018 04:14 AM   Edit   Profile  

All great advice.

The only thing I'll add is this: apply your finish to the neck and complete it (let it cure/level/polish/etc.) before you apply any oil to the rosewood fretboard.

If you do these in reverse order, you'll have finish adhesion problems along the edges of the fretboard.

Leftee
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VA

Oct 10th, 2018 07:15 AM   Edit   Profile  

Great point!

I won’t oil a fretboard until I’m putting strings on it for the first time. I’ll oil the board and give it an hour or two before installing strings.

LeftyMeister
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Buckeye Country, USA

Tone is in the lingers
Oct 10th, 2018 07:24 PM   Edit   Profile  

Thanks for the advise. I will hopefully be ordering new parts by next week.

Eric, I'm gonna hang onto the neck you send to me a little while longer. I'm thinking of giving it a try on my other Tele. If I don't use it, I'll mail it back.

Leftee
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VA

Oct 11th, 2018 01:08 AM   Edit   Profile  

No worries. I’m fine either way. (-:

LeftyMeister
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Buckeye Country, USA

Tone is in the lingers
Oct 12th, 2018 01:52 PM   Edit   Profile  

More questions...

1. I've pretty much settled on copper ala the old LP Goldtops? Where could I buy the paint? Is Reranch still in business? I found a website but no one answered the phone. Other sources?

2. I know some of you have had issues with some paint brands. Which ones should I steer clear?

3. Is there an advantage between copper foil versus shielding paint in the pup cavities?

4. For finishing, do ya'll prefer Tru Oil, poly, or nitro? I want a bit of sheen but not too shiny.

Leftee
Contributing Member
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VA

Oct 12th, 2018 02:17 PM   Edit   Profile  

I ordered the paint for Mike’s guitar from reranch. I think they’re a small family outfit. They are still a great source of paints. I’m spraying clear nitro over the color. Also from rr.

If you’re going reranch you really don’t have any other concerns. (-:


I’ve got no experience with spray sheilding.


LeftyMeister
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Buckeye Country, USA

Tone is in the lingers
Oct 12th, 2018 02:21 PM   Edit   Profile  

Thanks! I can see the Copper Metallic when I do a BING search but not when I go directly to their site. I wanted to call and see if they're still carrying it.

Leftee
Contributing Member
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VA

Oct 12th, 2018 02:25 PM   Edit   Profile  

I’d try email.

There’s another site, but I don’t remember what it is.

Leftee
Contributing Member
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VA

Oct 12th, 2018 06:40 PM   Edit   Profile  

This was a place Aaron mentioned.

Madison's

Leftee
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VA

Oct 12th, 2018 06:43 PM   Edit   Profile  

If ya gotta do the Home Depot/Lowes route (like I did with the blue Strat) don't use the Rust-o-leum "paint and primer" products. It works. It's harder to get a decent finish out of. I did manage to get this latest Nashville build finished with some of that. But it weren't easy.

Leftee
Contributing Member
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VA

Oct 12th, 2018 06:52 PM   Edit   Profile  

There is a Fender

copper

Leftee
Contributing Member
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VA

Oct 12th, 2018 06:53 PM   Edit   Profile  

And Gibby

Gold Top

LeftyMeister
Contributing Member
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Buckeye Country, USA

Tone is in the lingers
Oct 12th, 2018 07:06 PM   Edit   Profile  

Copper Tone Metallic...that's the color.

Mick Reid
Contributing Member
*****

Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Oct 13th, 2018 12:56 AM   Edit   Profile  

"...don't use the Rust-o-leum "paint and primer" products. It works. It's harder to get a decent finish out of."

Hey Leftee - that's disappointing to hear.
After my Dulux Duramax fiasco, I got Rustoleum (mainly due to colour option) to do my current build.

I've only got the primer on there (I opted for a separate primer despite what their claims may be) but I still have the colour coat & clear on the shelf.

Wondering if I should take it back for a refund and get something else.
I went with all Rustoleum products to avoid any mismatch/adhesion issues.

This is my first guitar job using enamel and it's already proven to be a PITA with the first attempt.

Can you elaborate on what your issues were please?


I could go back to my usual lacquer, but that would mean stripping and re-priming the body AGAIN.

Being disabled atm, is preventing me from doing much in the way of running back & forth from the hardware store and I'm already overburdening my wife with other stuff.


Leftee
Contributing Member
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VA

Oct 13th, 2018 05:04 AM   Edit   Profile  

It’s the “paint and primer” mixed in the same can. They offer just enamel, and the “paint and primer” at my local store. The enamel is what I did the blue Strat with back in the spring and it worked great.

The paint and primer product goes on pretty thick and gooey in comparison. You can make it work. But it’s not as easy to work with as the plain old acrylic enamel.

I did forge ahead, knowing that, and I did this second Nashville Tele build with one of the p&p products because of the color. It worked out but I had one screwed up body behind me at that point.

P&P example

(This message was last edited by Leftee at 07:14 AM, Oct 13th, 2018)

Next 20 Messages  

FDP Forum / The Lefty Forum / Questions about building a guitar




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