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FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Today's guitar repair adventure (broken hut on acoustic)

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Peegoo
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Just beyond Mars

there's a world of fools
Mar 27th, 2019 03:42 PM   Edit   Profile  

Broken *nut*.

This is a very common job, especially on cheap acoustics because (1) they usually belong to a younger person that does not take proper care of their guitar, and (2) the nut material on a whole lot of these sub-$300 guitars are made of a brittle and fragile plastic.

This guitar is an inexpensive Dean. It was borrowed by a pal of mine named Jeff, and he decided it was time to return it to its owner...but he busted the nut and didn't want to be That Guy.

I keep a stock of these cheepo plastic nuts on hand. It rarely makes sense to upgrade the nut unless the owner wants to pay for a better one or if the owner plays a lot and needs better tone out of a cheaper guitar.

For this job, I used a nut similar to the one that was on it. I've talked about this here before, but it bears repeating: how the slots are cut makes a big difference in the tone and response of any guitar--be it acoustic or electric. Pay attention to slots, and even a cheap guitar will sound worlds away from how it did in stock configuration.

This repair was a really good learning experience for me. Here's what I took away from this job: never loan gear to Jeff.

Pics here

(This message was last edited by Peegoo at 05:43 PM, Mar 27th, 2019)

hushnel
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North Florida

A Friend of Bill W.
Mar 27th, 2019 03:55 PM   Edit   Profile  

I’ve done a few, I’ve always made them though, I have a decent amount of corian from a buddy who built wood cabinets. Most people don’t want green granite looking nuts though. The surface sander does a good job of leveling the material to profile thickness.

Good looking job.



Peegoo
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Just beyond Mars

there's a world of fools
Mar 27th, 2019 04:11 PM   Edit   Profile  

Thanks Mike.

These nuts commonly break because the slots are cut so deep into the nut, and the top of the nut is not planed off. This creates a lot of leverage when the nut takes a hit from the side, and it cracks the end right off. It doesn't take much force at all.

But if the slots are properly done, that removes the leverage problem and prevents the nut from breaking. If this new nut takes a hit, chances are good it would simply be knocked loose and just need to be re-glued.

Mick Reid
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Australia

American-made in Oz!!
Mar 27th, 2019 04:12 PM   Edit   Profile  

Nice job Geno. Of course I'd expect nothing less from you :^)

However, I'll trade ya...

got a cheap Ibanez with a Floyd Rose on the bench, :^(

Peegoo
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Just beyond Mars

there's a world of fools
Mar 27th, 2019 04:18 PM   Edit   Profile  

Yikes! You're gonna have to cook some tana leaves and read from the Book Of Dark Conjures.

I can't help ya, brother :oD



And for all you comedians thinking about requesting a picture of a broken Hut on a guitar,

here you go.

(This message was last edited by Peegoo at 06:29 PM, Mar 27th, 2019)

hushnel
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North Florida

A Friend of Bill W.
Mar 27th, 2019 05:13 PM   Edit   Profile  

Yeah, the first machine, compounded leverage. The cavemen did it with a bludgeon. And it wern’t aliens that built the pyramids.

Leftee
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VA

Knuckleheading
Mar 27th, 2019 05:17 PM   Edit   Profile  

Green granite-looking nuts.

I’d be all over that. Especially on certain guitars.

Peegoo
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Just beyond Mars

there's a world of fools
Mar 27th, 2019 05:33 PM   Edit   Profile  

Nuts of Granite.

If that isn't a great name for a product line--I dunno what is!

hushnel
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North Florida

A Friend of Bill W.
Mar 27th, 2019 05:51 PM   Edit   Profile  

Granuts?

Therealfrogman
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Pueblo, Co

I qualify!
Mar 27th, 2019 05:51 PM   Edit   Profile  

Nice work!

Achase4u
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U.S. - Virginia

Mar 27th, 2019 08:37 PM   Edit   Profile  

This is why I always try to take very good care of guitars people loan me(like yours).

Man. I would grow a tail just to put it between my legs.

Excellent work, G.

wrnchbndr
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New Jersey

I'm back with the otters again
Mar 28th, 2019 08:28 AM   Edit   Profile  

If you call, you can get 4" X 4" X 3/8" corian samples directly from the manufacturer for very cheap. Go to Lowes or Home Depot, select the colors you want and give 'em a ring. It saves you from thinking criminal thoughts at the home improvement store and the larger samples are big enough to make acoustic saddles too. All sorts of colors available.

Achase4u
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U.S. - Virginia

Mar 28th, 2019 08:40 AM   Edit   Profile  

"It saves you from thinking criminal thoughts at the home improvement store"

No kidding. I went to the service desk to order some Owens Corning insulation they had as special order on their site. It was like I asked them to bring somebody back to life. 40 minutes later, they had no idea how to get the insulation to the store so I left.

Peegoo
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Just beyond Mars

there's a world of fools
Mar 28th, 2019 03:26 PM   Edit   Profile  

That's because you were in a Wallgreen's.

[rim shot]

Leftee
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VA

Knuckleheading
Mar 28th, 2019 03:44 PM   Edit   Profile  

If he was at Walgreens it for *the other* nuts.

Not sure why fiberglass insulation was required. That doesn’t sound right at all. O-:

Achase4u
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U.S. - Virginia

Mar 28th, 2019 03:46 PM   Edit   Profile  

You gotta protect yourself these days man. It's fireproof.

Ragtop
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The older the violin

the sweeter the music.
Mar 29th, 2019 08:08 AM   Edit   Profile  

Peegoo, how do you remove the old nut? I presume they are held in place with a drop of glue? More than a drop?

Those of us with old nuts need to know!

Peegoo
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Just beyond Mars

there's a world of fools
Mar 29th, 2019 11:39 AM   Edit   Profile  

This type of nut doesn't really sit in a slot like on a Fender neck. Gibsons are like this too. Here's how I do it.

If the clear finish is sprayed on after the nut is installed, you risk cracking the finish around the nut. So always score around the ends and back of the nut with an X-Acto blade. That allows the finish to break cleanly along the score line. If there's no finish on the nut, you can skip this step.

Next, lay a small block of wood atop the frets, resting against the front of the nut. All that's left to do is a light tap on the opposite end of the block; a screwdriver handle is ideal to tap the block because a light tap is all that's necessary to pop the nut off.

Ragtop
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The older the violin

the sweeter the music.
Mar 29th, 2019 11:53 AM   Edit   Profile  

Very good, thanks!

Peegoo
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Just beyond Mars

there's a world of fools
Mar 29th, 2019 12:22 PM   Edit   Profile  

Far as gluing 'em in, some techs say a thin film on the bottom of the nut is best.

I smear a thin film of glue on the bottom, as well as the front, where it abuts the end of the fingerboard. Titebond is my preferrred glue for this.

I press the nut in place and like to see some squeeze-out all around. Put a few strings in the nut and moderately tension the strings; this acts like a clamp and holds the nut in place while the glue sets up. Use some slightly dampened paper towel to wipe up the squeeze-out.

A little piece of paper towel folded over a thickness gauge works great for getting in there beneath the strings to wipe up any visible glue beads.

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FDP Forum / Guitar Mods, Repairs, and Projects / Today's guitar repair adventure (broken hut on acoustic)




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